Since Max of Eastman Place opened in 2002, chef/owner Tony Gullace has been a defining force in the local restaurant scene. Consistently expanding and developing the Max brand, Gullace has a drive and dedication that does not go unnoticed. With a bevy of changes in the offing for the various Max establishments - including the new Max at the Gallery, the opening of Max at High Falls, the closing of Max at the Lake, and the expansion of Max Cafe at Max Market - Gullace sat down and gave us the scoop; the following is an edited transcript of the conversation. For detailed information on the Max venues, including menus and locations, visit maxrochester.net.

CITY: How did Max at the Gallery come about?

TONY GULLACE: When Cutlers went by the wayside [in the Memorial Art Gallery], we were contacted by the university to provide a request for proposal, which we did. There were three or four entities that also supplied requests, but at the end of the day, I think the Max brand sort of made it interesting to move forward. The gallery is a challenge. The hours of operation, the rules and regulations - it can be somewhat of a challenge over there. However, I had a committee meeting this morning and we've made great headway in the two or three weeks we've been open.

It's a great space, a really beautiful location. What have you done with it, and what are your plans?

We've done some painting and some new chairs have been purchased. It's the kind of space where you have to be creative; right now we're doing a long lunch service from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. The possibility exists in the fall of doing some sort of afternoon tea service, which lends itself to the gallery clientele and experience.

What about Max at High Falls? Is this a new restaurant location, or events only?

We're selling it as an events center right now. We may use it as an entertainment venue as well, but right now its events only. We're doing our first event for the High Falls Film Festival. They're very excited to be able to for the first time do a High Falls event actually at High Falls, and we're excited as well. It took us six to nine months to convince the city and work through the details, but the more they saw the potential, I think they really liked the idea. The infrastructure there has changed considerably. There's a dynamic down there that didn't exist 10 years ago. There are people living there now, there are lots of businesses, and business incubators - so there's lots of people on the cutting edge of trying to bring that area back to life.

Is there going to be a special menu for that venue?

No, it's going to be our events menu, which is consistent through all of the properties. We're developing a new one now that will have some unique and different things.

Let's talk about Max Market, which now has the Max Café. How did that come about?

That was by customer demand. People want to be able to sit down to eat and people love the prepared food that is available there.

Is just the prepared food available, or is there a specific menu for the cafe?

There is an actual cafe menu now, and we're doing some promotions in store. Monday nights is going to be our Max Chophouse night at the market, where we are going to grill steaks outside for people who want that Chophouse steak experience but in the market environment. So you can either take it with you, or eat there.

[Also], have you heard about our Chophouse Tuesdays? Tuesdays at the Chophouse we have a $39 prix-fixe menu that includes an appetizer, choice of salad, choice of a couple of entrees, and all the wine you can drink. It's pretty much sold out every Tuesday night. It's really turned into something very interesting.

Why did Max on the Lake close?

The contract was up at the end of February, and they decided to do it on their own. Economic times dictated that they probably not pay me, and it's good for me, I can focus on my core operations.

What's next for the Max brand?

We're going to level off right now, we want to do some controlled, sustained growth within the events side of our business. We're looking to do some unique things at the gallery - there's the potential there for weddings and some really nice events. High Falls, it's like the tip of the iceberg. We're just envisioning what that facility can do. We know what the convention center does, and we know what the hotels do in town, so it's a matter of getting some of these events, charities, and business luncheons to think outside the box and say, Wow, it would be nice to be in High Falls, with room for 200 people sitting down or outside on the deck in a summer evening....

Did you ever envision Max being the brand it is today?

[Shakes head a bit] The market was always something I had in the back of my mind. The chophouse was a natural extension for Rochester, because there was nothing like it. I think it's really filled a niche and people just love the chophouse. People are absolutely in love with it, it's small, it's quaint, and it's manageable. There's a space next to it, my landlord keeps trying me to take over and I don't want to do that. All I want is to keep going the way it's going....