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CHOW HOUND: Gluten-free options

Goodbye to gluten

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When I went gluten-free several months ago, I said goodbye to sandwiches, cereal, pastries (sob), pasta, and, for the love of all that's holy, PIZZA. In fact, I thought I had to count Italian food out entirely. If you're one of the estimated 3 million Americans who suffer from wheat-gluten allergies, your eating habits might resemble those of Atkins dieters.

The Rochester Celiac Support Group website (rochesterceliacs.org) explains that "Celiac disease (CD) is an autoimmune disease. A protein found in wheat, rye, and barley causes the body's immune system to attack the lining of the small intestine." Horrifying. Symptoms vary in different individuals, and can manifest as abdominal discomfort, chronic digestive issues (ew), anemia, infertility, anxiety, and depression, just to name a few. CD blood tests are available, but testing has to occur while you're consuming gluten. And there's no cure for the allergy; just good old-fashioned discipline, by way of an everlasting adherence to a gluten-free diet.

One great thing about going gluten free is the opportunity it affords (read: forces) you to branch out from typical American fare to other grain/starch options that you might otherwise never try. Quinoa (keen-WAH, a grain which sort of resembles couscous when cooked) and edamame (soy beans) are great, versatile options that can be made into fun appetizers or a featured dish.

The allergy makes you really think about what you put into your body. Many processed foods are completely out of the question, especially if they don't specify that production occurs in a gluten-free factory. Some even have tricksy little code words (malt vinegar, modified food starch, and caramel color can contain wheat). And heads up: I've found that many soy sauces contain wheat as their primary ingredient, but La Choy is GF. If you get sushi, don't do tempura, bring your own sauce, and you'll be just fine.

The Rochester Celiac website offers a variety of resources, recipes, and information for people seeking a wheat-free diet. Check it out for a full listing of local restaurants that offer a gluten-free menu. Below find a rundown of gluten-free dishes we've recently tried and enjoyed at local eateries.

Portofino Restaurant (formerly known as Portobello) offers gluten-free pasta and pizza crust; you just need to call two hours in advance for the pizza. I tried the fettuccine portobello ($14.95), which featured sliced portobello mushrooms, zucchini, and goat cheese in a creamy, silky tomato sauce. If you've cooked with rice pasta, you know it can be difficult to achieve the desirable "al dente" consistency. But Portofino does it right, without a hint of mushiness. (2171 W. Henrietta Rd., 427-0110)

Natural Oasis Ethiopian Buffet and Vegetarian Cafe is a friendly and laid-back dining experience nestled within the Ayurvedic herb, natural foods, and book store. The building also houses a yoga studio and wellness center. The buffet is all-you-can-eat for $8, and includes tikil gomen, a tender cabbage and carrot dish in a vaguely sweet and yummy sauce; gomen, or collared greens; meser, or red lentils; and ruz, brown rice and veggies. The buffet also offers a spongy flatbread that tastes like a potent sourdough (oh, how I've missed you!). (288 Monroe Ave, 325-1831, NaturalOasisNY.com)

P F Chang's serves Chinese family style, meaning you order a bunch of dishes and everyone passes them around. You can download the restaurant's GF menu from its website. Most of the offerings are normal dishes, sans breaded items and wheat soy sauce: Chang's chicken lettuce wraps ($8) are spiced chicken served in lettuce cups. On the vegetarian menu, I'm a fan of the spinach stir-fried with garlic ($3), a tender and lovely combination of flavors. But honestly, I'd go again just for the rich flourless chocolate dome with raspberry sauce for dessert ($6). (1002 Eastview Mall, Victor, 223-2410, pfchangs.com )

Simply Crêpes has a cozy, charming interior done up with sunny yellow walls, exposed beams, a fireplace, and multiple chandeliers, and it feels like the rich aunt of a bright country kitchen. The restaurant offers gluten-free buckwheat crêpes for any crêpe on the menu, including breakfast, entrée, and dessert crêpes. The Crespalla Florentine ($11.59) is entirely delicious: a blend of three cheeses (ricotta, parmesan, and Swiss) rolled in a crêpe with spinach, topped with house marinara sauce, and drizzled with a white cheese sauce and fresh parmesan. The whole thing just melts in your mouth. One of my carnivorous friends speaks highly of the ham and asparagus crêpes alfredo: sliced ham, asparagus, and ricotta, glazed with alfredo sauce and melted Swiss cheese. (7 Schoen Place, Pittsford, 383-8310; also in the Bausch & Lomb Public Library, 114 South Ave, 428-8300; and in Canandaigua, 101 S Main St, 394-9090, simplycrepes.com.)

India House Restaurant, like most Indian restaurants, can be a haven for the gluten-free. Wheat isn't really a huge thing in the east; cuisines from that region are far more reliant on rice, which is available aplenty at India House. The starter crispy lentil papads and chutney sauces are so tasty and addictive, you won't feel bitter while your friends munch on the soft and luscious garlic nan bread. My favorite menu items are palak paneer, spinach cooked with homemade cheese with mild spices; paneer makhani, homemade cheese cooked in cumin-scented butter with tomatoes, ginger, nuts, and mild spices; and gobi aloo, cauliflower and potatoes sautéed in mild spices with ginger. (998 S Clinton Ave, 461-0880; 7343 Route 96, Victor, 742-2030, indiahouse.com.)

Gusto offers brown rice penne for any pasta dish, and all of their pizzas are available on a rice flour crust, which is crunchily satisfying, just like New York-style slices. I always get the vegetale, topped with homemade tomato sauce, mozzarella, roasted peppers, and marinated artichokes. ($7.50 for a four-slice personal pizza). Don't forget about the gelato! (277 Alexander St, 232-7810, eatwithgusto.com.)

Where's your favorite gluten-free place to eat? Let us know at rochestercitynewspaper.com.

Comments for "CHOW HOUND: Gluten-free options" (4)

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Amy said on Jan. 01, 2009 at 2:36pm

NIck's pizza across the intersection from Wegman's plaza at Chili-Paul has the best in gluten free pizza and bread in Monroe County. They even do cookies and heavenly little cream-puff like pasteries.

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Aubrey said on Jan. 04, 2009 at 11:53am

Though far out, in Victor there is Leonardo's Pizza on state route 96. It isn't directly on the menu but they offer every pizza they make in Gluten Free! I was more impressed with the thinner crust pizzas but was very pleased they had any at all.

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Roman said on Jan. 04, 2009 at 1:39pm

If you're in the mood for more traditional Italian-American style food, Bazil's two restaurants (one is near MCC, the other on Empire Boulevard overlooking the Bay) offer a gluten free menu. My aunt has a gluten allergy, and when she visited me in Rochester, we went to dinner there - she was very pleased with the gluten free menu and impressed with their gluten free choices.

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