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SUMMER '09: Adirondack hikes

Peak experience

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A New York summer is hardly complete without the Adirondack experience. Whether you like to relax, play or explore, the 6 million-acre Adirondack Park is one of our state's most distinctive destinations. Gobs of outdoor recreational opportunities are connected with every stream, mountain, and lake, while cabins, resorts, and spas cater to those looking to bask in a peaceful mountain getaway.

"The outstanding wilderness draws me to the Adirondacks," says Pete Baillargeon, an avid outdoorsman who teaches at Rochester's School of the Arts. In a span of three years (2002-2005), Baillargeon became a "46er," the label reserved for the prestigious group of hikers who have scaled each of the Adirondack's 46 highest peaks (each 3,800 ft or higher). Baillargeon initiated his High Peaks pursuit on Mt. Marcy, which towers over the others at an impressive 5,344 ft.

The 46 High Peaks aren't for everyone, of course. Things like small children and bad knees sometimes get in the way. But don't let that stop you from a summer mountain experience. There are plenty of ways to approximate high-peaks rapture with less effort.

This list of five family hikes covers a range of difficulty while celebrating what is uniquely Adirondack: marvelous panoramic views of alpine summits, old-growth forests, meandering streams, and clear-water lakes. From the handicap-accessible Whiteface to toddler-friendly "starter mountains" to challenging half-day climbs, there's a peak for everyone in the Adirondacks. All are located in the mountainous area that stretches from Tupper Lake eastward to Lake Placid and Keene Valley. This is an area whose popularity with tourists is balanced by its outstanding scenery and sense of place.

Whiteface Mountain: Everyman's mountain

Easy 10 miles round-trip by car in Wilmington

At 4,867 feet, Whiteface is the fifth-highest peak in the Adirondack Park, and can be reached in air-conditioned comfort via a steep toll road that winds five miles to its rocky, alpine summit. The summit proper can be reached via short hike or an elevator located in the mountaintop weather station.

This easy access makes Whiteface a good choice for "the very young, very old, incapacitated, or the downright lazy," says Pete Fish, a retired forest ranger and volunteer trail steward. Whiteface ensures that awe-inspiring mountaintop views can be enjoyed by anyone with a tank of gas. The more adventurous can hike to the top via one of two trails.

Once you reach the top, 360-degree views of the surrounding wilderness are mighty impressive. On a clear day, you may see to Canada, Lake Champlain, or Vermont, and can count the High Peaks in the distance. Keep your ears tuned: Whiteface is also an important stronghold for Bicknell's Thrush, a secretive, high-elevation songbird rarely seen but easily identified by its flute-like call.

Cool fact: Practice your cliff-jumping skills at The Wilmington Flume, a nostalgic roadside swimming hole found just off of Route 86.

Getting there: From Lake Placid, travel north on NYS Route 86 and turn left onto the Veterans Memorial Highway. Follow New York Department of Conservation trailhead signs to the summit. Toll costs $9 for driver plus vehicle, plus $5 for each additional passenger (6 and under free). Toll road is open daily 9 a.m.-4 p.m.

Mt. Jo: Short and sweet

Easy 2.3-mile round-trip climb in Lake Placid

Assuming you can lure your toddler out of the car with a bag of Skittles, Mt. Jo is an excellent starter mountain. Great views of Heart Lake and the High Peaks (specifically the MacIntyre Range) can be seen from its 2,876 ft summit. The climb is short but steep with an 800-ft elevation gain, so be prepared to sweat. Like most Adirondack trails, the trail has a few "rocky ledges and exposed roots, but well-attended kids manage just fine," says Fish. Several rewards along the trail, including open vistas with views in three directions, keep kids interested and moving along.

Access Mt. Jo from the Adirondack Loj parking area. Loj naturalists lead guided hikes up Mt. Jo Wednesdays through Mondays at 9 a.m. The great Adirondack camp also features lectures, campfire stories, stargazing, and the Heart Lake Nature Museum.

Cool fact: Mt. Jo is a monument to broken hearts and lost love. Legend has it young man Henry proposed to his love Josephine atop Mt. Marcy as they gazed upon the heart-shaped lake below. She accepted, and together they dreamed of building a wilderness lodge and lakeside home. Jo's parents, however, yanked her back to the Big Apple, and while Henry fulfilled their dream, he forever lost his love.

Getting there: Park at the Adirondak Loj ($9 fee) off of Route 73. Spillover parking at South Meadow Parking area is 1.5 miles away. Camping is available on site and nearby, but fills up fast. For more information call the Adirondack Loj at 518-523-3441.

Baxter Mountain: Short, sweet, and off-the-beaten path

Easy 2-mile round-trip climb near Keene Valley

Somewhat less traveled, Baxter Mountain (2,425 ft) is equally recommended for young kids and offers stellar views of the High Peaks, including the famous giant, Mt. Marcy. Enormous boulders, remnants of the last glacial age, provide convenient photo opps and resting posts the way.

Cool fact: The landmark Baxter Mountain Tavern, located just about a mile north of 9N, is a favorite watering hole among locals and hikers.

Getting there: The parking lot is located at the top of a hill on 9N, about 2 miles east of its intersection with NY 73. Look for the trail about 60 feet east of Hurricane Road.

Cascade Mountain: Easiest of the 46 peaks

Easy 4.8-mi round-trip hike in Keene

Don't let Cascade Mountain's designation as a top 46 Peak deter you from scaling its summit. The trail is a relatively easy climb for most ages; even ambitious 3- and 4-year-olds have been known to scramble up its face. The mountain rises 1,940 ft in 2.4 mi and the well-maintained trail winds through magnificent beech-maple and birch forests. At "only" 4,098 ft, Cascade does not have a true alpine summit, but it does have a bald crest owing to a history of forest fires. The summit offers commanding views of Whiteface and the Champlain Valley.

To extend your hike by 1.5 miles (round trip), take the yellow-blazed trail to Porter Mountain just south of Cascade's summit. "This is an easy way to bag two 4,000-footers in one day," says Pete Fish.

Cool fact: A waterfall flows at the foot of Cascade in between two lakes. Best views are from the roadside.

Getting there: The trailhead is located on Route 73 about 6.8 mi west of Keene. Look for the New York DEC sign at the trailhead on the south side of the road. Parking space is limited.

Ampersand Mountain: Rewarding half-day climb

Moderate 5.6-mi round-trip ascent near Tupper/Saranac Lake

At 3,352 ft, Ampersand is the 116th tallest Adirondack peak and is "near enough to the thoroughfare of travel for thousands of people to see it every year, and ... far enough from the beaten track to be unvisited except by a very few of the wise ones," writes Henry Van Dyke in "Little Rivers: A Book of Essays in Profitable Idleness."

Ampersand is surrounded by fantastic old-growth forests and takes at least four hours to complete. While the trail is not difficult, it may be better suited for adventurous souls who won't object to a full morning's outing. The trail winds through a fertile carpet of foliage, which anchors lovely hemlock groves and birch-maple forests. Near the summit, manmade steps help scale the most vertically challenging segments and marvelous rock formations conceal deep crevices that spew fresh, cold air.

Expansive, panoramic views can be observed from its bald crest. A bronze plaque at the summit is dedicated to Walter Channing Rice, a hermit who kept vigil on this peak from 1915 to 1923.

Cool fact: A gorgeous bay with a small swimming beach is located at the end of a wooded, half-mile trail that leads from the parking lot. So retrace your exact steps on the way down and lure your subjects along with the promise of a refreshing dip at journey's end.

Getting there: The parking lot is located on the north side of NY 3 east of Tupper Lake, 7 miles east of its intersection with NY 30/NY3. Cross the road to find the trailhead.

NOTE: Be hike-wise and search the web and other resources to find more detailed information on each hike. And if so indicated, fill out a "Trip Ticket" at the trailhead and show it to park rangers upon request.

Hiking checklist

Onions have layers. Parfaits have layers. You should have layers, too. Of clothing, that is. Weather is highly changeable, and you never know whether you'll be warm, freezing, parched, or soaking wet. In the words of Pete Fish, cotton kills when wet. So avoid cotton and blue jeans. Wool and synthetic fabrics are best.

Also bring along:

-Water

-Bug Spray

-Ankle boots/hiking shoes

-Flashlight

-Moleskin for blisters

-Sunglasses/hat

-Garbage bag

-Topographic Maps (so you can play "Name That Peak")

-Altimeter, just for fun.

Staying in the Adirondacks

Search for lodging options at VisitAdirondacks.com. Most Adirondacks accommodations fill up quickly, but the economy has left more hotel/motel and bed & breakfast openings than usual. Call and ask for a deal.

A few selections:

White Pine Camp in Paul Smiths (518-327-3030) Steeped in history, this authentic lakeside "Great Camp" is as remote and tranquil as it gets.

High Peaks Resort in Lake Placid: (518-523-4411) Casual waterfront elegance conveniently located in the heart of it all.

Bark Eater Inn in Keene (866-603-3245) Rustic country charm - with horseback riding!

Econo-Lodge in Lake Placid (518-523-2817)

Campgrounds ReserveAmerica.com, or try Whispering Pines private campground in Lake Placid (518-523-9322).

Attractions

The Wild Center Natural history museum of the Adirondacks (wildcenter.org)

Adirondack Museum Immerse yourself in Adirondack history and times gone by (adkmuseum.org)

Adirondack Visitor Information Centers in Paul Smiths and Newcomb (adkvic.org).

Lake Placid Winter Olympic Museum & Hall of Fame Explore the legacy of the 1932 and 1980 Olympic Games (orda.org)

ADK Scenic Railroad From Lake Placid to all points west (adirondackrail.com)

Adirondak Loj & Wilderness Campground (adk.org/ad_loj)

Great Camp Sagamore Learn how America's wealthiest enjoyed rustic luxury in the wilderness (greatcampsagamore.org/)

Resources

Adirondack Mountain Club (adk.org) Members receive discounts on parking, camping, and other attractions. ADK sells essential topo maps and trail guides. Look for the "Guide to Adirondack Trails" series and "Adirondack Canoe Waters, North Flow" (Paul Jamieson & Donald Morris).

"50 Hikes in the Adirondacks; Short Walks, Day Trips, and Backpacks throughout the Park" (Barbara McMartin, Countryman Press)

"An Adirondack Sampler: Day Hikes for All Seasons" (Bruce Wadsworth, Adirondack Mountain Club)

"Kids on the Trail: Hiking With Children in the Adirondacks" (Rose Rivezzi & David Trithart, North Country Books)

The Adirondack Alpine Zone

The Adirondack Alpine Zone refers to the fragile, wind-whipped habitat found above timberline, generally at elevations above 4,300 feet or higher. The vegetation on an alpine peak gradually shrinks from thick, lush forests to rocky, exposed summits overlain with a carpet of "dwarf" vegetation, including moss, lichens, and other plants. Plants in the alpine zone are extremely fragile, and most are rare or endangered. Only about 170 acres of alpine habitat remains. Please stay on the rocks at all times.


Laura Kammermeier is a freelance birding and nature travel writer. She's an avid bird watcher and writes about the bird life and outdoors experience of new landscapes for various publications.

Comments for "SUMMER '09: Adirondack hikes" (12)

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Mike said on Jun. 17, 2009 at 12:47pm

Fantastic sampler of Adirondack attractions!

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June said on Jun. 17, 2009 at 1:26pm

This article makes me want to jump in my car and drive to the 'dacks!

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Krissie said on Jun. 17, 2009 at 5:01pm

See you there in July - I'll bring the skittles!

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Pete said on Jun. 17, 2009 at 7:47pm

Wonderful article! Lots of resources. It was great talking to you about the Adirondacks, and thanks for mentioning me in the article. Hope others fall in love with my mountains! They become yours after spending some time with them and having wonderful memories until the next adventure!

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dick havilahd said on Jun. 17, 2009 at 7:54pm

good photos and story.

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Joan Haviland said on Jun. 17, 2009 at 8:20pm

Loved the article! Like June, I want to go there. You did a great job. I liked all the specifics! I'm so proud of you!

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Rochelle said on Jun. 17, 2009 at 9:55pm

What an interesting article. As someone new to NYS, I'm very excited to visit the Adirondacks. The article provides a nice range of hikes and we'll be sure to take our two children and explore the Adirondacks. Thanks for all the resources and information pertaining to planning a trip in the Adirondacks. Great article!

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Catherine Light said on Jun. 18, 2009 at 4:48am

As the closest lodging facility to Bald Mountain, we have an interest in promoting this mountain for many reasons. However, ANYONE visiting the c entral Adirondacks loves this little gem, as it is a GREAT warmup for young and old unable to get to the high peaks region, for whatever reason. PLUS, the firetower at the top gives it even more appeal.... here at the inn, we offer a special HiKing package just for people who have come to the Old Forge area who want to do smoething more with their kids than visit Water Safari/Enchanted Forest. We have chosen to live, work and raise our own families in the Adirondacks for a reason: places like Bald (Rondaxe) Mountain are part of that!

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Steve Melcher said on Jun. 18, 2009 at 9:51am

What a jewel (the article, author and the Adirondacks) we have in NY!

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Pat Mataraza said on Jun. 18, 2009 at 1:20pm

What a great article!! It sure piques my interest in visiting the area. Now if only I can convince Dad. We're so proud of you. Keep up the good work.

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Mary Golden said on Jun. 23, 2009 at 5:54pm

Fabulous article--written with delight and light heartedness. Dusting off the hiking shoes ....ready?

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Michele Fineout said on Jul. 15, 2009 at 9:35pm

My husband and I were searching for hikes in the ADK's and stumbled across your article. What a wonderful quick summary of some of the peeks and attractions. I'm off to do some more research on Ampersand Mountain now. Thank you!

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